There once was a boy named Mark .....

Who began life in the normal way, happily ensconced in the bosom of his family. Or so he thought …..

While on holiday his family parked at an isolated truck stop, carried out requisite ablutions and then drove away. Without Mark!

 

When the family arrived home, they agreed they should return to collect the child but the Sunday night movie was about to start and it was Terminator 3, so they’d get him another day.

 

Sadly for Mark this day never came and to cut a long and painful story short, he was adopted by tree dwelling creatures who raised him as their own (in spite of obvious biological differences) and in their honour he became Mark Squirrell!!!

 

Mark trained for revenge by becoming a trained killer with the Special Forces in the Army where learned how to inflict hideous injuries, all the while dreaming of the day revenge would be his at last!

 

But on the very day he was to wreak the most appalling suffering of Biblical proportions to those who had reduced him to living the life of an ANIMAL, he was visited in a dream by the King Squirrel who told him to devote himself to helping the poorest, the most hungry, the most needy.

 

And he had to begin this task by immediately climbing Mt Everest to raise awareness for the United Nations World Food Programme.

 

Mark slowly put down his arsenal of weapons of monstrous destruction and picked up instead a pair of Asolo Thinsulate lined plastic double boots with insulated Goretex high altitude gaiters (that he had lying around) and began walking ……

 

This is some of his story ……

Everest Diary 1 May

Location: Everest Base Camp Altitude: 5300 metres

Today we headed back down to Base Camp in order to rest again and enjoy a bucket bath. When coming through the Ice Fall we came across a rescue operation. An Italian climber had fallen from one of the ladders and smashed into the crevasse wall. His head hit the ice wall and knocked him unconscious. A team of Sherpas and doctors were sent up to evacuate him. As seen here, he was tied into a stretcher and then carefully brought through the Ice Fall. A helicopter was then used to transport him from Base Camp to Kathmandu. He is very lucky to have had the accident in the lower sections of the Ice Fall. If it had been any higher, the ability to organize a swift rescue may not have been possible. I will now tread more carefully when crossing the ladders!!

 

 

 

Walking towards the yellow band on the Lhotse face, between camp 3 and the camp 4 which is at the south col

Everest Diary 30 Apr

Location: Base of the Lhotse Face Altitude: 6700 metres

We left Camp 2 for a leisurely foray to the base of the Lhotse face. This is found at the end of the Western Cwm and is literally a face of ice and snow. The Cwm is quite a gentle slope and easy to walk although one has to be constantly aware of the crevasses. As seen in this photo, not all the crevasses need ladders to cross but rather a solid running jump. The Lhotse Face will be tackled on the next climb up and in a way I am looking forward to the challenge. It looks similar to some of the sections on Ama Dablam and will require ice climbing skills and a tolerance to exposure and heights. Again I found the thin air a challenge. After only 20 or so steps I would need to stop and regain my breath. This was very tiring and I am not looking forward to the higher elevations where this will be even more of a problem.

Traversing the top of the Lhotse Face towards the South Col, below is camp 3.
Sucking in O2 at camp 4 (south Col) just hours before departure for the summit. Only stayed at camp 4 for 6 hours. Left for summit at 21:00

Everest Diary 29 Apr

Location: Camp 2 Altitude: 6400 metres

After an exhausting day yesterday, we all hung around Camp 2 and tried to do nothing. We spent 8 hours the day before reaching Camp 2 and I must admit that I am really starting to feel the affects of the thinner air. A few of the team are suffering from headaches and are struggling to sleep at night. I am pulling up alright but can feel desperately out of breath with just the easiest of physical tasks. I feel a lot better than when we were last at this altitude but can see that the higher we go, the harder it is for the body to recover. We are three quarters of the way up the Cwm and at least the camp feels relatively safe compared to the Ice Fall and Camp 1. Aussie Tim and I had many hours of horizontal rest.

Everest Diary 28 Apr

Location: Camp 2 Altitude: 6400 metres

Again at 5am the team headed from Base Camp into the Ice Fall. The sub group that I am apart of has been slowly whittled down for various reasons. I headed off with Rob, Pommy, Adrian and Aussie Tim (Claire was also with us but will be climbing Lhotse rather than Everest). Temperatures were well below zero as the winds gusted like there was no tomorrow. Our fearless and experienced leader, Henry Todd, even described the conditions as one of the coldest he had seen in the Ice Fall. A few hours later though, we were at the top of the Ice Fall meandering our way through the Western Cwm. Again the heat blazed down and high temperatures were the concern rather than freezing winds. This time I came prepared and made sure that the sun would not again tamper with my taste buds. As you can see, I took some advice from the Arabs who know very well the best way to protect oneself from the massive fire that lights this planet. No sunburn for me on the face or tongue. By mid afternoon we dribbled into camp 2.

Looking out from tent at Camp 4 (south Col). There was a temporary break in the clouds which opened up the view.

Everest Diary 25 - 27 Apr

Location: Everest Base Camp Altitude: 5300 metres

Resting. Beating Pommy at cards. Resting.

As you can imagine, there's just not that much to do here... How many times can you play the same game of cards? I'll tell you in a month or so.

Climbing high up passed camp 4. This shot was taken just below the south summit and looking back down on the Balcony to the left. Taken about 9am after 12 hours climbing from camp 4.

Everest Diary 24 Apr

Location: Everest Base Camp Altitude: 5300 metres

Aussie Tim doesn’t snore. I had a reasonable nights sleep but woke early as we had turned out the torches just after 7pm. There isn’t a lot to do at night when the temperatures are below freezing and one can hardly move in the tent without disturbing the other joker on the other side of the dome home. After boiling some snow and packing up our gear we headed back down the first section of the Western Cwm and then the Ice Fall. On our way down we came across the other half of Ice 8000 climbers who were on their way up to do exactly the same as what we had just done. We didn’t stop to talk for too long as I was keen to get back down to Base Camp for a fry up. Eggs, bacon and beans were a welcome relief after a few days of freeze dried meals cooked by the expert himself. Aussie Tim loves to boil the water in the tents vestibule, as shown.

Everest Diary 23 Apr

Location: Camp 2 Altitude: 6400 metres

We woke up in the morning to a sensational day, with not a cloud to be seen in the sky. Today’s objective was to walk to Camp 2 and then return to sleep at Camp 1. Aussie Tim and I set off around 9am. Timing is critical. The walk between the two camps is done solely on the Western Cwm. This large glacier is surrounded by the walls of Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse. If the sun is shining and there is no wind, the temperatures and radiant sun beaming from the snow can be excessive (because we are that much closer to the sun the UV rays are dangerous). This was certainly experienced. I thought I was well prepared with glacier glasses, hat with back flap, nose protector, sunscreen, lip balm and white thermals. Only one thing I forgot: my mouth. Because we were still puffing and panting to move along the Cwm, I had my mouth open most of the way. Little did I know at the time, the sun was being reflected off the snow and onto my tongue. At the end of the day I felt as though I had dipped my tongue into hot wax. It has made eating and drinking quite difficult. Another lesson learnt for the days to come. Having reached Camp 2 we returned to Camp 1, acclimatisation in full swing.

 

The Hillary step. Taken from the south summit.

Everest Diary 22nd Apr

Location: Camp 1 Altitude: 6100 metres

At 5am the team of 8, mentioned on the 21st, headed towards the Ice Fall. After putting on our crampons we began the journey through the blocks of ice and over the deep crevasses. Our goal was to move through as quickly as possible in order to avoid the hot sun and limit the time amongst the ice jungle. After only 10 minutes or so it was clear that many of us were comfortable at climbing at different speeds. Aussie Tim and I paired up and tackled the challenge at a similar pace. It was difficult going as we were carrying around 15 kg’s in our pack and of course wearing big plastic boots with crampons etc. Although we had previously played around in the Ice Fall, today we had to pump hard and make it to the top as quickly as possible. Upon reaching the top we merged with Rob who led the way to camp 1. From the top of the Ice Fall to Camp 1 we strolled along the lower part of the Western Cwm (pronounced: coum). This section was a much more gradual incline although the crevasses were much larger, forcing us to zig zag across the glacier.

On top with the WFP flag.

Everest Diary 21 Apr

Location: Kala Pattar Altitude: 5550 metres

Henry sent the team south to get some exercise and give him some space (as his wife Sue arrived mid morning). Kala Pattar is the classic viewing point for Everest and with good weather (which we have finally managed to find) the Himalayas are spectacular. Aussie Tim and I reached the peak at around 10am and had the attached photo taken. We are now preparing to partner up as we will hit the Ice Fall tomorrow and share a tent at camp 1. The rest of the team struggles to understand our perfect “Australian” accent and so we have happily been clumped together. We have now both packed and look forward to the 5am start, although the whole team is somewhat anxious about tomorrows move. The danger of the Ice Fall was highlighted today with an accident just near the top of the Ice Fall. A team of 7 Sherpas were moving through the last stages of the Ice Fall when a massive block of ice suddenly fell. Three were killed instantly and the remaining four were injured. We will be moving as quickly as possible to minimise exposure to this threat. Moving to camp 1 tomorrow will be Rob Casserly, Claire, Serena, Raj, Pommy Adrian, Tim and myself.

Back at camp 4 after the summit.

Everest Diary 20 April

Location: Everest Base Camp Altitude: 5300 metres

The snow continued to fall last night but thankfully it appears to be abating this afternoon. A few Sherpas have tried to tackle the Ice Fall as there are some teams stuck at Camp 1. They will again try to open a route so as the teams can return to Base Camp. Camp 1 is notorious for avalanches and therefore the last place one would want to hang out when there is heavy snow falling. Not much they can do though as it is just as dangerous to attempt a decent through the Ice Fall (until it is more stable). We are lucky that the snow didn’t come in 24 hours later or it could have been us stuck at Camp 1. The bad weather has still prevented any helicopters from picking up Graeme (with the bad back). He has now hobbled half way back to Lukla and will await a pick up at Pangboche. Absolutely no chance of a chopper arriving today though as the whole of Kathmandu is under a daytime curfew. I spoke with Ingrid this morning; she is trapped in the house as the Government curfew attempts to stifle plans for a massive demonstration in the heart of the city. After speaking with Ingrid, I thought it was time I had a bucket bath. Pommy took the opportunity to record the moment as I walked through camp with bare legs and boxer shorts on. According to him it was not a pretty sight.

 

 

Everest Diary 19 Apr

Location: Everest Base Camp Altitude: 5300 metres

Why is it that whenever I head to Mt Buffalo or Hotham with a snowboard in hand, the sky is clear and not a flake of snow appears to have fallen? I suppose it is because I want it to snow so as I can carve up the powder. Why is it that when I want to climb the biggest mountain in the world, the clouds come in and dump a mass of white stuff? Because I bloody don’t want it too!! We are all sitting around playing cards, monopoly and backgammon as the snow continues to fall. It is a very unusual weather pattern for this time of the year and extremely frustrating as the Ice Fall will now be potentially prone to avalanche and also the crevasses will be difficult if not impossible to spot. A short break in the weather this afternoon has allowed us to scramble from our tents, take a few snaps and get ready to go home ……..